Daily Bread – our relationship with roti

roti and salanWhen I married into a Pakistani family a wealth of new experiences opened up to me, but by far the most integral and enduring were those concerned with food. Something about food just gets under your skin. It becomes more than just nourishment when you’re hungry. It’s many things; a comfort, an identity, a skill and a form of communication – a lovingly prepared dish, or a stubborn refusal to eat; both carry a message. It has the ability to gather people together and soften hearts.

In my little multi-cultural family, we eat mostly Pakistani cuisine interspersed with Italian or Moroccan fare and, of course there’s the odd time that we have something oven-ready, like fish and chips, just out of laziness; a “sling-it-and-ding-it” as my friend Jenny calls it. But whenever we’ve gone a few days without a decent salan (a generic name for any South Asian dish) we start to crave some REAL flavours. We just can’t go for very long without the tastes of “home” – not Home the place, Home the feeling.

Roti” is Urdu for bread. It’s what we call the soft, flat, tortilla-like bread that we use to eat most of our Punjabi dishes. They’re also called chapattis to distinguish them from other types of bread like naan or parathas. They taste and smell heavenly – freshly made, warm and “chopered” (spread with a thin film of butter), they’re healthy – no preservatives, salt or bleaching agents, just a simple mixture of flour and water, AND they’re cheap; a 20kg bag of atta (finely milled wheat-flour) is $10 and lasts us a good couple of months. It’s a staple part of our diet and the kids’ favourite food.

roti, phulkaMaking roti is an art that most South Asian girls learn from their mothers. First, they help with the cooking; turning the roti over on the hot thava (a large, slightly curved pan) when the colour changes, while their mother rolls out the next one. When the surface starts to bubble, they use a utensil to hold it directly over the flame until it puffs into a phulka, filled with hot air. Once they’ve mastered this technique, they learn to make the atta (dough), not too dry so that it’s stiff nor too wet so that it sticks to the hands like a wheaten adhesive. I learnt the hard way to add the water gradually. Now, like my mother-in–law, I can judge the right amount by eye. The atta is kneaded and left for a few minutes before being shaped into individual little balls, and rolled out into perfectly round roti ready to be placed on the thava. I learnt at my mother-in-law’s side and perfected the skill over time. In the beginning I made a variety of shapes, you never knew what you were going to get – I had an aptitude for producing squares. I also remember my efforts at cooking roti when we had an electric hob instead of gas – they turned out baked, like biscuits – brittle and dry. Eventually, you develop a rhythm, rolling out the next disc while an earlier one gently colours on the thava. As the old adage goes, “practice makes perfect”. My family easily put away 8-9 roti at dinnertime, so I’m in no danger of getting rusty.

roti and dhaal The number of girls who can make roti is falling. The availability of frozen, ready-made chapattis offers a quick alternative; no need to get your hands dirty or stand over a hot stove. But like all convenience food, it distances us from the reality of what we eat, relegating it to something pulled from a cupboard instead of wrought from love and expertise. There’s an elemental sense of connection to the wider world when you create a meal from its basic ingredients. Feeling the soft texture and warmth of the dough, pliable and yielding in my hands, inhaling the tantalising aroma of warm bread that permeates the house like an olfactory comfort blanket; these are things I would hate to lose – for us, they’re part of the make-up of family life. Nothing says home like fresh roti!

What food is important to you? Do you live to eat, or eat to live? What’s the one thing you couldn’t live without? Leave a comment below and tantalize our taste-buds!

13 Comments

  1. Recipe please! Well, actually I think for this one I’ll need some intensive “roti making lessons” from expert Aisha!! We’ll have to get together again soon – after we return from our trip to PEI. We leave tomorrow morning and in our suitcases I’ve included: quinoa, 12-grain flour, kamut flour, flaxmeal, and almond butter! That gives you an indication as to how important whole grains are to my family (well, mostly me!)!

    Reply
    • Bordering on the obsessive there Mon! I hope you have a wonderful trip, we’ll get together when you return :-)

      Reply
  2. Roti is also a staple of Trinidadian cuisine – and by extension, quite popular in Jamaica too… (I am not an expert on the subject but I have eaten roti with curry chicken wrapped up inside…)
    This post made me feel hungry!

    Reply
  3. Yum, I love chapattis!! When I was little I practically lived on dal. I still love it.

    Reply
    • It’s the ultimate comfort food!

      Reply
  4. We love pancakes.
    We have hens, so we have really good eggs, and we make batches of batter and eat them as they come off the pan (there’s usually a queue, sadly not an orderly one!).
    My daughter loves to make the batter, and it’s one of the few things I make really well.
    With honey and lemon juice (and nutella for my autie dude) they are heavenly.
    XXX

    Reply
    • Oooh fresh eggs – lucky you! We’re big pancake fans here too. I used to make English style ones, then we moved to Canada and my husband tried a recipe for American pancakes – he’s been cooking them ever since! We have them with fresh fruit, vanilla cream and maple syrup :-) Here’s the recipe

      Reply
      • Fab recipe! God help my waistline…xxx

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  5. My mom has a Trini friend who makes the best rotis. I do miss my mom’s Jamaican cooking. There is a Jamaican food shop on our street but it is just ok. I like visiting my cousin in Bristol because she makes good Jamaican food. Odd that JA food actually reminds me of home in Canada…but it works.

    Reply
  6. Thank you for pointing me here – this is so interesting to me. I like to try out different types of bread and I was shocked by just how easy this was – I pledge to not buy these from the shops ever again!
    Laura @ Kneadwhine recently posted…ChapatisMy Profile

    Reply
    • Oh God no! Feeeeeel your food! You have the added bonus of knowing exactly what’s gone into it :-)

      Reply

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. Bangles, Betrothal & ‘A Good Pakistani Girl’ - Expatlog | Expatlog - […] narrow gold bands jingled gaily as my mother in law kneaded the atta for the evening’s roti. They glinted …

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